Thirteen Ways of Looking at a Review

Showing posts with label restaurant reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurant reviews. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Porno Burrito! I Was Suddenly Disconcerted That I'd Only Pointed You at Male Restaurant Critics


First here's the porno burrito guy.

Here's a first-rate conversation on the topic of the paucity of women in the job.

Here's a sample:

• What, If Anything, Is Missing From the Restaurant Conversation If a City's Major Critics Are All Men?
Ruth Reichl (New York Times, 1993-1999): Are we missing something if we don't have female critics' voices? Absolutely. I do think that women often look at the world in a different way than men do ... If you're going to make a generalization about how men and women experience a restaurant, men tend to see it much more food-first, and women tend to see it more experientially.
S. Irene Virbila (Los Angeles Times): Editors aren't looking as much for thoughtful, nuanced reviews, but something that's provocative and in-your-face. There are more men with a writing style like that than there are women. I'd say of the women critics I've read, they tend to be more alert to what's going on around them and the life of the restaurant.
Mimi Sheraton (New York Times, 1975-1983): The men write differently. They write in a more brazenly, sure-footed tone of voice. I don't want to say belligerent, but there's a hard edge. And yes, I think a woman does see things a man doesn't see.
Besha Rodell (LA Weekly): I probably talk a little bit more about emotion in my reviews than my male counterparts, but that's just me. I wouldn't say another woman would necessarily do that. I know some female critics who use, for lack of a better word, masculine language. I love that writing. I strive to make my writing feel stronger and more powerful.
Devra First (Boston Globe): It's not as if women like salads and men like red meat. But it's not always not true, either. I wonder sometimes, in my writing, if I gravitate towards lighter food, or away from giant food. I think it's possible that women critics think more about the health aspects than men do ... [But] chefs of all genders are becoming more interested in vegetables and the possibilities that they present.

Monday, January 29, 2018

Last Year's James Beard Winner

Makes me want pancakes.

Karen Brooks holds one of the most prestigious titles in the food world: winner of the James Beard Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award for 2017. This was her second time as a national finalist. After this, it’s all gravy.

Brooks eats, drinks and thinks about food for Portland Monthly, where she continues her journey as Portland’s opinionated, trend-spotting food critic. She pens monthly restaurant reviews, writes and photographs the print magazine’s Word of Mouth column (aka: what I’m obsessing over now), drives the annual Best Restaurants issue, contributes to various food-cover packages, and breaks news for the magazine’s food blog, Eat Beat.

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Figurative Language in a Restaurant Review

English: This is a tongue
English: This is a tongue (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
I took a bite of the chili. I thought: "So this is what it's like to have your tongue sandpapered."

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

My 'Smart' Restaurant Review

English: Times Square
English: Times Square (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
I'm saying this review cum feature story is smart because it raises the possibility a bad review might help a restaurant just as a good review by a powerful critic can ruin one. (According to Michael Bauer, a small restaurant that receives a strong review can be overwhelmed by a flood of customers it is not ready to handle.)

When I read the New York Times’ hilariously smart-mouthed review of Guy Fieri’s new Times Square restaurant, Guy’s American Kitchen and Bar, I couldn’t believe that a culinary experience could be so spectacularly frightful. Was the food really as “limp” and “oil-sogged” as the critic Pete Wells claimed? Did the drinks really taste like “a combination of radiator fluid and formaldehyde”? Did Fieri’s spiky, bleached hair and Pauly Shore-turned-youth pastor personality inspire so much ire in the Gray Lady’s reviewer that he could no longer separate the man from his food? Surely this place can’t be worse than your average TGI Friday’s. Or could it? I had to find out.
I wasn’t alone. Wells’s review was so popular—it’s the most read story on the Times’ website this month and it generated so much controversy that Fieri had to defend his reputation on the Today show—that the restaurant has started drawing a crowd. Of locals.

P.S. Remember I talked about how a writer might include a word that she thinks most readers won't know, flattering the handful who do and educating the mass who don't. I rather like this technique, though if  I stumble over two, three, four words I am not familiar with - no, I don't like that very much. Our lesson for today is "review cum feature story."

P.P.S. My friend Mason Monroe, who has cooked for a living at various times in his life and who cooks very well, writes to say the idea "about a rave capsizing a small place is bullshit." 

Friday, August 22, 2014

Last Year's 19 Most Scathing Restaurant Reviews

Tank with liquid nitrogen.
Tank with liquid nitrogen. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
No, tell me what you really think.


I must meet this Anna Roth of SFWeekly, whose lead makes me want to crouch in the weeds until I save up enough for the liposuction:

Michael Chiarello stands in the middle of his new Embarcadero restaurant, Coqueta, pouring liquid nitrogen into the eager hands of a group of well-dressed women at a round corner table. He's as handsome in person as he is on the Food Network, tanned and trim with closely cropped salt-and-pepper hair, and is certainly acting the part of the showman celebrity chef as he makes his flashy version of frozen sangria.
I'm sitting two feet away at a table behind him, but my view of the extravagant display is limited to Chiarello's (admittedly well-toned) backside. All through the meal, the chef returns to the same two or three tables several times — drinking punch with them out of a traditional Spanish pitcher, bringing them little treats from the kitchen, generally having what appears to be a great time — and ignores everyone else. If I'd come to bask in the glow of Chiarello's celebrity, I would have been left out in the cold. And his food here isn't much of a consolation prize.

And what does Michael Bauer of the Chron have to say?

When you see dozens of dazzling pintxos at Coqueta, stuck upright into a board with red-tipped toothpicks, you think you're in Barcelona. The flower baskets hanging from the black street lights outside the paned windows give a hint of Venice. If you look to the right, the Bay Bridge shows you're firmly ensconced in San Francisco.
Then when Michael Chiarello comes out of the kitchen in his chocolate brown chef jacket with the flag of Spain on its sleeve, you might be totally confused about Coqueta.


Thursday, August 21, 2014

A Meal Can Have a Purpose

Chasing a trend. Entertaining a visitor from out of town. Celebrating a culture. Celebrating an anniversary. Cementing a business relationship.

Cementing a non-business relationship.




A Tantalizing Feast



Tom Jones

— MOVIECLIPS.com


Followers